An abbey on the mountain peak

On the border between the municipalities of Greve and Figline, along a steep and winding track mid some lovely wooded areas, you reach the top of Monte Scalari. This is where the ageold monastery stands named after Saint Cassian, the patron saint of teachers and writers, whose feast day falls in 13th August. Built around 1040 by the Buondelmonti monks, the building belongs to the seven abbeys of the Vallombrosan Order founded by Saint John Gualbert. The small, stone oratory originally acted as a place for refreshment to the pilgrims travelling along the nearby Via Cassia. The considerable donations made by noble families later turned it into a veritable monastery and permitted the monks to establish hospices, living their help to the poor. Having become famous for the bell made by Andrea del Verrocchio, which is regarded as being the most valuable object in the monastery, in later centuries, the abbey underwent numerous extension and renovation works until Peter Leopold, Grand Duke of Tuscany, ordered its demolition in 1775. The years spent restoring the church proved to be fruitless, as too was the hard work of the friars in looking after the surrounding lands, which have been completely destroyed. The assets – including the valuable bell - were sold, as well as the monastery, and there was soon nothing left.
Today, we can admire it once more in all its beauty, with a few remains of its artistic heritage, including Saint John Gualbert's incense burner, a part of the crucifix attributed to Bernardo di Stefano Rosselli, and other paintings like the Samaritan at the Well and an Ecce Homo by Nicodemo Ferrucci. Its renaissance dates back to 1787, when Montescalari was promoted to a parish and subjected once more to renovation work – albeit keeping the title of San Cassiano – and for many years remaining the property of the Rosselli del Turco family. Showing off the loveliness of the place, the abbey and surrounding forests acted as the fascinating backdrop of the investigations of Commissioner Bordelli, the protagonist of the novel, Morte a Firenze, by Marco Vichi.

(Portions of this article first appeared in "Toscana & Chianti News")

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