Piombino: Not Just Boats To Elba

The rushed and superficial among you only think of it as the port of departure for the more famous and lauded Elba Island, but you have no idea what you’re missing!
Discovering Piombino actually means getting to know the close ties between a town, its land and sea. Breathing in the salty air, getting lost in the narrow paved streets that smell of history and mingling in the aromatic pine breeze and the hint of wheat on the surrounding hills. To immerse yourself in this atmosphere, carry on past modern Piombino, linked to the port and its trade and discover the old centre, with its beautiful vista over one of the most stunning sea views of the Mediterranean.

Geographically speaking, we are on a promontory separated from Elba Island by a short stretch of sea. At the summit this promontory is superbly
occupied by the unique Piazza Bovio, a magical place where you can not only see across the entire Tuscan Archipelago, especially on clear days, but even as far as Corsica. The lighthouse is also situated on the square. Up until the 1920s the fortification of La Rocchetta, which can now only be seen on vintage postcards, testifies to the 1000-year history of one of very few historic centres overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea. A 1000-year history linked to the iron reserves that saw the Etruscan civilisation prosper here, as in the neighbouring Elba. Populonia, a stone’s throw from the centre, bears witness to this, one of the first settlements of this people locally.

The etymology is also associated with the Etruscan legend. “Piombino” seems to come from “Populino”, that is “little Populonia” and not according the legend passed down through generations from weight in lead (the Latin plumbum) to be paid as port duties. A town of fishermen, sailors and workers, Piombino has always been the centre of attention. It was the second port of the Republic of Pisa, later an independent principality for many centuries in the presence of kings and emperors who longed for it before it also later fell to Napoleonic rule before becoming part of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany.

Tragically, it later returned to the limelight during World War II with the episode that has gone down in history as the Battle of Piombino, but which was actually the first real act of armed resistance (1943), which won the Gold Medal for Military Valour for the town.
In conclusion, Piombino isn’t just about the steel industry, although this sector of heavy industry still manages to put bread on the tables of many local families between its many problems; most of all it’s about the sea, unpolluted nature and fertile hills where a leading DOC wine is produced, such as the Val di Cornia.

Also dive into the local art and visit the stunning fortress, archaeological digs, the cathedral of Sant’Antimo, the citadel, the five district parks, the Padule Orti Bottagone nature reserve and look towards the sea, shaking your head as you realise that Piombino really isn’t just a port to get to Elba.


(Portions of this article first appeared in "Toscana & Chianti News")
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